Tuesday, 11 August 2015

WHISTLE STOP TOUR OF STOCKHOLM


                  WHISTLE STOP TOUR OF STOCKHOLM

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT: 
I acknowledge my gratitude and  thanks  to Google, Wikipedia , the various blog spots,  magazine articles and travel guides for the inputs provided by them all the four countries of Scandinavia- Norway, Sweden, Denmark and Finland . The information provided by them has vastly helped me to connect to connect my photographs with the history linked to these places.
               Though I visited all the four Scandinavian Countries almost 5 years back, in October 2010, I could sit down with determination only in 2015 to compile this blog.  Better late than never!  Five years could be a  period long enough for many of the old landmarks to yield place to newer ones. So in that sense my blog may already have become outdated in some places . It could require an updating with new photographs. If it does, then I shall certainly do the needful-- --provided I happen to revisit these countries (by the Grace of God, certainly !)   Travel often makes you acknowledge humbly the role of the 'Invisible Hand'. This  term extends beyond just the economic forces that  many economists are often inclined to refer to !
          Through this blog post, I thank my various friends and relatives   for their overwhelming  warmth and hospitality during all the occasions when they hosted me at their homes . I also thank them for by sparing their valuable time for me and escorting me around in new places, helping me to accomplish  sight seeing in otherwise remote and difficult places. I also thank my various co-travellers from different parts of the world for their enjoyable company,wit, humour and camaraderie during our journeys together. They made each of my  sojourns very memorable ,without an exception.
      I request viewers to please excuse me for the poor photography. Scandinavia was the first time when I handled a compact digital camera for an  intensive use. I was not familiar with the subtle nuances of photography in changing conditions of light and weather. Also our  sightseeing bus did not stop at many a place to enable us to take better shots under static conditions (without the interference from rain-splattered or dusty windows).
           Sadly,  time, tide and sightseeing buses /trains wait for none!
       
                                                                         
                                      Stockholm
With a population nearing 850,000 Stockholm is the most populous city in Sweden . It is home to approximately more than a fifth of  Sweden's population. The city is built on 14 islands lying at the mouth of Lake Malaren. These islands form a part of the larger Stockholm archipelago comprising almost 30,000 islands, which are mostly uninhabited. 
         Owing to the presence of canals and water bodies, Stockholm is sometimes referred to as the “Venice of the North”.  Surrounded by 219 nature reserves, Stockholm has around 1,000 parks, which corresponds to 30% of the city’s area. According to the European Cities Monitor 2010, Stockholm was the best city in terms of freedom from pollution.  Also, the 2010  Environmental Performance Index ranked Sweden as the world’s fourth most environmentally friendly country among 163 countries after Iceland, Switzerland and Costa Rica.

The ruler Birger Jarl,is said to have  founded  Stockholm in order to protect Sweden from the attack of foreign fleets. The core of the city is Gamla Stan, i.e. Old Town, on the central island . The word "Stan" is simply a contraction of the word "Staden" , meaning "the town." Gamla Stan is the place where one gets an' old world feel' amidst a fast paced changing world. Birger Jarl, had a city wall and fortification built around Gamal Stan to “lock “the entrance. The fortress was known as Tre Konor . After it was destroyed by fire in 1697, it was later rebuilt as the Royal Palace.

 Gamla Stan, also went by the epithet “The Town between the Bridges”, is the old town of Stockholm. It consists primarily of the island Stadsholmen. It is surrounded by the islets Riddarholmen, Helgeandsholmen and Stromsborg.   

Nybroviken

We were fortunate that our hotel, Radisson Blu, was located in the heart of Stockholm, in Nybrokajen, the pier and the street along Nybroviken. It is located on the Blaiseholmen peninsula.  Our hotel overlooked Nybroviken ("New Bridge Bay"). This bay separates the Blaiseholmen peninsula from the posh business district of Ostermalm. Today, Nybroviken is a frequently used departure point for ferries of various sizes bound for Djugarden and the  Stockholm Archipelago.
 Nybroviken  from the northern quay.


Hotel Radisson Blu  in Nybrokajen

 We could get a beautiful view of Strandvagen, the splendid avenue in Ostermalm with magnificent stately buildings including the Royal Dramatic Theatre.
Strandvagen as viewed from our hotel in Nybrovigen

Strandvagen (Beach Road) is a boulevard on Ostermalm in central Stockholm, stretching one kilometer east of Nybroplan. It was completed just in time for the Stockholm World Fair in 1897. It quickly became one of the most prestigious addresses in town. The Djugarden heritage tramway passes over Strandvagen.


Nybrokajen (left) and Strandvagen(right) as seen from the island of Djugarden.

Panoramic view of Strandvagen from Djugardsbron


Bunsow House (Bunsowska huset) constructed in 1886–88,set a standard, not only for the entire street but for architecture in Sweden during the 1890s. The building is named after Friedrich Bunsow, who had made a fortune on wood.


The Royal Dramatic Theatre ( Kungliga Dramatiska Teatern) is Sweden's national stage for "spoken drama", founded in 1788 and located in the Art Noveau building ( above) at Nybroplan since 1908


Vasa Museum



The Vasa Museum (Vasamuseet) is a maritime museum located on the island of Djugarden. The museum displays the only almost fully intact 17th century ship that has ever been salvaged. The 64-gun warship “Vasa” sank on her maiden voyage in 1628. Opened in 1990 the Vasa Museum is the most visited museum in Scandinavia.
       From the end of 1961 to 1988 Vasa was housed in a temporary structure called "The Vasa Shipyard". Here she was treated with polyethylene glycol. In 1981, the Swedish government decided that a permanent Vasa museum was to be constructed. An architects’ competition for the design of the museum building was organized. A total of 384 architects sent in models of their ideas for the most suitable building to house the Vasa. The construction of the new building began on and around the dry dock of the old naval yard in November 1987. Vasa was finally  towed into the flooded dry dock under the new building in December 1988.

Inside Vasa Museum






Close to our hotel lay Berzelii Park and the Raoul Wallenburg square. 

Berzelii Park is located  between Nybroplan and the business district of  Norrmalm. The park is named after Jons Jacob Berzelius, the Swedish chemist and professor at the  Karolinska Institute who was also the  Secretary of the Royal Academy of Sciences. His statue stands in the middle of the park. This was the first time in Sweden that a park had been erected in honour of a scientist
               An interesting history of the park is that its inaugural ceremony in 1858 was fixed at the unearthly hour of three o’clock in the morning. Such was the concern of the organizers that over enthusiastic visitors did not trample upon the newly planted saplings in the park..The Berzelius Park leads to Norrmalm, a fashionable shopping centre.


The statue of the Swedish chemist, Jons Jacob Berzelius stands in the middle of the Berrzelii park.

Berns Hotel with its famous bistro, is located close to Berzelii Park. It has been functioning since 1863.
 
Berns Salonger is a restaurant and entertainment venue in Berzelii Park, in central Stockholm. The building was constructed from 1862–63, by H.R. Berns. It often holds concerts and other shows and has a capacity of 1,200.

On our way to the Royal Palace, we walked through Kungstradgarden ("King's Garden"). It is one of the most popular hangouts and meeting places in Stockholm thanks to its central location and its several outdoor cafes. It is also a politically vibrant place considering the political demonstrations staged there .A number of Stockholm landmarks are found around the perimeter of Kungsstradgarden.

Kungstradgarden ("King's Garden")


Statue of Charles XII  (Karl XII) in Kungstradgarden ("King's Garden")





Statue of Charles XIII in Kungstradgarden ("King's Garden")



The fountain of  Johan Peter  Molin (1866) in Kungstradgarden ("King's Garden")


The  carvings on the fountain relate to the mythological characters the Ocean God , Aegir, his wife Ran and  their nine daughters, all listening to the river spirit , Nix , playing his harp.  The fountain was inaugurated in 1866 and willow trees were planted in the park at that time.

The park has an interesting history to it. In 1971, when the plans for the construction of the Metro Station called for the cutting down of old elms it led to violent protests. There was tree hugging campaign in which the people chained themselves to the trees. This was called the Battle of the Elms . The far reaching outcome of all these protests were that not only were the trees saved with the relocation of the entrances but also marked the end of a period when many old buildings in central Stockholm were demolished. 
          Incidentally, echoes of this tree conservation movement were to be heard later in India in the late 1970s and early 1980s. It took the form of the "Chipko Movement" spearheaded by Sunderlal Bahuguna, in the state of erstwhile Uttar Pradesh ( and now Uttarakhand)  

Today, thankfully, things are more peaceful at Kungstradgarden. It is mostly known for   Tehuset ("Tea House") offering coffee, sandwiches, and other refreshing things.








Kungstradgarden as seen from across the bridge of Strombron

Evening hangout at Kungstradgarden  


North of the King's Garden is Hamngatan with the department stores PK-huset and Nordiska Kompaniet (NK) facing the park.


A series of historically important are lined-up along the eastern side of the Kungstradgatan.  They include the   Stockholm Synagogue and the Headquarters of Handelsbanken to name only a few.
The Stockholm Synagogue designed by Fredrik Wilhelm Scholander

The Great Synagogue of Stockholm located in Wahrendorffgatan ( in Norrmalm district) , between Berzilli Park and  Eastern Kungstradgarden. It is listed in the Swedish registry of national historical buildings.


The imposing building of Svenska Handelbanken ( on the left side)

Svenska Handelbanken  (left) and  Grand Hotel (right) with the Strombron bridge in the foreground.

Strombron ("The Stream Bridge") is a 140 metres long viaduct in central Stockholm. It  connects the old city Gamla Stan to Blasieholmen ,near the park Kungstradgarden.


                                         The Grand Hotel

Grand Hotel is a five-star hotel in Stockholm founded by Frenchman Jean Francois Regis Cadier and opened in 1874. It opened at the same time as the Grand Hotel in Oslo and all Scandinavian capitals have a major Hotel called 'Grand Hotel'. Grand Hotel is located next to the National Museum and opposite the Royal Palace and Old Town. Since 1901, the Nobel Prize laureates and their families have all been guests at the hotel. Currently, the hotel is owned by the wealthy Swedish Wallenberg family


Kungliga  Musikaliska Akademien,  (Royal Music Academy), Nybrogatan

Some of the notable buildings on the western side  of Kungstradgarden are the  Royal Swedish Opera  and the  Saint James’ Church 

Church of St. Jacob’s (  a.k.a. St. James) ( P.S. St. James is supposed to be the patron saint of travellers; that is why this church is so special for me !!)

Saint James's Church also known as St. Jacob’s church because as in many other languages, Swedish uses the same name for both James and Jacob. The church is dedicated to apostle Saint James, the patron saint of travellers. ( by corollary he becomes my patron saint too !).

Many important landmarks are located close to the church, within easy walking distance namely - Royal Opera,  the Square  Gustaf Adolfs Torg, the Sergels Torg, the Royal Palace  etc.


The Royal Swedish Opera ( Kungliga Operan)  located on the eastern side of Gustav Adolfs Torg ,on the western side  of Kungstradgarden and on the northern side of the Norrstrom river.
 The Royal Swedish Opera  is connected to the Royal Palace through the Norrbro bridge



South of  King's Garden is the quay Stromgatan interconnecting the bridges Strombron and Norrbro. Both these bridges  stretch over to the  Stockholm Old Town and the Royal Palace.


The Royal Palace and its surroundings.

The southern facade of the Royal Palace faces the grand-style slope Slottsbacken,  the eastern facade is bordering Skeppsbron, an impressive quay passing along the eastern waterfront of the old town; on the northern front is Leionbacken, a system of ramps named after the Medici Lions sculptures on the stone railings; and the western wings border the open space Hogyakterrassen.


Slottsbacken, the southern section of the Royal palace





Upper section of Slottsbacken in front of the Royal Palace (right), Storkyrkan ( Great Church)  or St. Nikolai Church (centre) and the Obelisk (left)

      A closer view of Storkyrkan ( Great Church)  or St. Nikolai Church. It is also known as Stockholm Cathedral.


                       Finnish Church near Slottsbacken



Northern facade of the Royal Palace (Kungliga Slottet) overlooking the quay called Slottskajen. The palace is built in the Baroque style. Its construction, which started in 1697, was done in phases and was completed only in 1760.
 

Scenes from the change of guards at the Swedish Royal Palace



The solemnity of the ceremony of the Change of Guards is writ on the faces of these Royal Palace Guards.

The palace is guarded by the Hogyakten, a royal guard of members of the Swedish Armed Forces. The institution of palace guards dates back to the early 16th century.

Stockholm Palace (Kungliga Slottet) is the official residence and major royal palace of the Swedish Monarch.The private residence of the royal family is however at Drottningholm Palace.

Stockholm Palace is located on Stadsholmen ("City Island"), in Gamla Stan (the Old Town). It neighbours the Riksdag, Sweden's parliament.

The offices of the monarch and the other members of the Swedish Royal Family as well as the offices of the Royal Court of Sweden are located there. The palace is used for representative purposes by the King whilst performing his duties as the head of the state.

The palace has 1430 rooms, 660 with windows and is one of the largest royal palaces in the world still in use for its original purpose. The palace consists of four rows: western, southern, eastern, and northern. The southern facade represents the nation, the western facade represents the king, the eastern facade represents the queen, and the northern facade represents the common royal. These four rows surround the inner courtyard.

Parliament House is the seat of the Swedish Parliament , Riksdag, and is located at the island of Helgeandsholmen

The surroundings of the Parliament House of Sweden



Riddarholmen (Riddarholmskyrkan)  church is a 13th Century church and is one of the oldest buildings in Stockholm . It is located on the island of  Riddarholmen close to the Royal Palace.
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Riddarholmen Church was originally built as a Greyfairs Monastery. After the Protestant Reformation, the monastery was closed and the building transformed into a Protestant church. A spire was destroyed by a strike of lightning in 1835 after which it was replaced with the present cast iron spire. Today the church is used only for burial and commemorative purposes.

                                           
Skeppsholmskyrkan (Swedish for "The Skeppsholm Church") .

It is a church on the islet of Skeppsholmen. It was secularized in 2002. Since 2009 the building is a concert hall called Eric Ericsonhallen, named after the Swedish conductor Eric Ericson.





Stockholm is one of the most crowded museum-cities in the world with around 100 museums. The most renowned national museum is the Nationalmuseum, with Sweden's largest collection of art: 16,000 paintings and 30,000 objects of art handicraft. The museum was founded in 1792 as Kungliga Museet ("Royal Museum"), but the present building was opened in 1866, when it was renamed the Nationalmuseum.

Nationalmuseum (National Museum of Fine Arts) is the national gallery of Sweden, located on the peninsula Blasieholmen in central Stockholm


Gamla stan

The city's oldest section is “Gamla Stan” (Old Town). It dates back to the 13th Century and is located on the original small islands of the city's earliest settlements. It still features the medieval street layout;  alleyways, cobbled streets and archaic architecture.  Just after Second World War several blocks and alleys in Gamla Stan were demolished for the enlargement of the Parliament From the 1980s, however, it has been preserved as a tourist attraction.

Some of the important buildings in and around Gamla Stan are Stockholm Cathedral, Nobel Museum, and the Riddarholm Church, the Swedish Royal Palace, built in the 18th Century after the previous, Tre Kronor ( Three Crowns ) burnt down. 

The main streets from the point of view of sightseeing and shopping are Osterlanggatan ( Eastern Long Street) and Vasterlanggatan,( Western Long Street).


Osterlanggatan.

Osterlanggatan ( Eastern Long Street) is a street in Gamla Stan,  the old town of Stockholm, Sweden.. Major sights include the statue of Saint George and the Dragon on Kopmanbrinken., the restaurant Den Gyldene Freden, established in 1722 and mentioned in Guinness Book of Records as one of the oldest restaurants with an unaltered interior.

Like Vasterlanggatan, Osterlanggatan used to pass outside of the city walls and was for many centuries one of the city's major streets. Compared to Vasterlanggatan,it is today a relatively quiet street .
Statue of Saint George and the Dragon on Kopmanbrinken

Den Gyldene Freden ("The Golden Peace"), named after the Treaty of Nystad. It was opened in 1722, located on Osterlanggatan.  It is  the oldest existing restaurant with an unaltered interior. and most famous restaurant in Sweden.


Vasterlanggatan
Vasterlanggatan (The Western Long Street) is a street in Gamla Stan. A demolished 13th century defensive wall stood once stood on this street. Today renowned  as one of Gamla stan's most picturesque and busy tourist magnets, Vasterlanggatan was for many centuries one of the major streets of Stockholm.

Jarntorget ( The Iron Square). It gets its name from  the iron which was sold here for export through the harbours of Malaren and Saltsjon located nearby.

               The Sundberg Konditiori dating back to 1785.

The statue of Evert Taube, waiting  for a taxi.  Evert Taube was one of the finest troubadours of Sweden and is best known for his folk songs

Kopmanbrinken (Merchant’s Slope). It is a street consisting of two slopes. Both slopes connect to the larger street of Osterlanggatan

         Iconic buildings surround the square  Stortorget

A peep into the alleys and old buildings so characteristic of Gamlastan





Ostermalmstorg is a square in the district of Ostermalm, Stockholm. It is known for its food market hall,opened in 1889.
Ostermalms Saluhall – The indoor market with much sought after stalls and restaurants

By the Ostermalmtorg  square stands the controversial statue of The Meeting (Motet), showing a naked male figure bearing a piece of meat on his shoulders before a recumbent female figure. It was created by the artist  Willy Gordon .


Ostermalm is the most affluent district of Stockholm, having the highest housing prices in Sweden.
(Some famous buildings in this area are shown below. These shops perhaps require no introduction to the trendy and brand conscious  among the viewers !!!)




Norrmalmstorg is a square in Central Stockholm. It connects shopping streets Hamngatan and Biblioteksgatan. It is also the starting point for tram travellers with the Djugarden   line. Close to the southwest is the park  Kungstradgarden.

The modern centrum  Normalm (concentrated around the town square Sergels Torg, is the largest shopping district in  Sweden. It is the most central part of Stockholm in business and shopping.
Normalm is home to Stockholm’s central station and numerous shopping opportunities (mostly along the busy Drottninggatan). One of the cultural attractions, which I could just about manage to capture in the darkness of the night is the Kulturhuset .

The square is famous for the Normalmstorg robbery which gave name to the Stockholm Syndrome. 

Sergels Torg (Sergel's Square) is the most central  public square in Stockholm. It is named after the 18th century sculptor Johan Tobias Sergel,  whose workshop was once located north of the square. It was created in the 1960s, followed by the total clearance of large areas to make room for new development projects
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Together with the underground mall east of the pedestrian plaza and the  T- Centralen metro station and other continuous underpasses west,  Sergels Torg forms part of a continuous underground structure almost a kilometre in length.

Night view of the obelisk "Crystal - vertical accent in glass and steel (Kristall - vertikal accent). The 37 metre tall glass obelisk by night against the backdrop of  Sergels Torg and Kulturhuset.

The contest for the central monument  was in 1962. The sculpture was finally completed in 1974 and since haunted by technical problems, never was able to deliver the intended visual output.
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Kulturhuset

        Kulturhuset is one of Stockholm's most popular public buildings and, besides the theatre, also includes small cafes, book shops, a bar and a restaurant, a library, various exhibitions, public debates, lectures, book signings, a small medieval museum, and workshops.

Stockholm City Theatre is situated in the heart of Stockholm, in the building commonly known as Kulturhuset ,the large lighted glass building at Sergel’s Torg (Sergel's Square), near the Sergel fountain and the Stockholm City roundabout

                   
                           Nordiska Departmental Store  near Sergels Torg and Kulturhuset



In 2009, Stockholm was awarded title of first European Green Capital by the European Commission. The almost total absence of heavy industry makes Stockholm one of the world's cleanest metropolises and capitals.
 Applicant cities for this award were evaluated in several ways: climate change, local transport, public green areas, air quality, noise, waste, water consumption, waste water treatment, sustainable utilization of land, biodiversity and environmental management.

Out of 35 participant cities, eight finalists were chosen. Of these three were from Scandinavia,, Stockholm, Copenhagen and Oslo.

 (I consider myself blessed having not only seen these cities but also having soaked in the spirit of these cities ( as also of Helsinki), by  walking extensively through the streets of the central  and historical districts of all these cities.)
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