EXPERIENCING THE CHANGING COLOURS OF AUTUMN IN HELSINKI

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT:
I acknowledge my gratitude and  thanks  to Google, Wikipedia , the various blog spots,  magazine articles and travel guides for the inputs provided by them all the four countries of Scandinavia- Norway, Sweden, Denmark and Finland . The information provided by them has vastly helped me to connect to connect my photographs with the history linked to these places.

               Though I visited all the four Scandinavian Countries almost 5 years back, in October 2010, I could sit down with determination only in 2015 to compile this blog.  Better late than never!  Five years could be a  period long enough for many of the old landmarks to yield place to newer ones. So in that sense my blog may already have become outdated in some places . It could require an updating with new photographs. If it does, then I shall certainly do the needful-- --provided I happen to revisit these countries (by the Grace of God, certainly !)   Travel often makes you acknowledge humbly the role of the 'Invisible Hand'. This  term extends beyond just the economic forces that  many economists are often inclined to refer to !

          Through this blog post, I thank my various friends and relatives   for their overwhelming  warmth and hospitality during all the occasions when they hosted me at their homes . I also thank them for by sparing their valuable time for me and escorting me around in new places, helping me to accomplish  sight seeing in otherwise remote and difficult places. I also thank my various co-travellers from different parts of the world for their enjoyable company,wit, humour and camaraderie during our journeys together. They made each of my  sojourns very memorable ,without an exception.

      I request viewers to please excuse me for the poor photography. Scandinavia was the first time when I handled a compact digital camera for an  intensive use. I was not familiar with the subtle nuances of photography in changing conditions of light and weather. Also our  sightseeing bus did not stop at many a place to enable us to take better shots under static conditions (without the interference from rain-splattered or dusty windows).

           Sadly,  time, tide and sightseeing buses and trains wait for none!

EXPERIENCING THE  CHANGING COLOURS OF AUTUMN AT  HELSINKI

Helsinki was the last halt for us on our return trip to India. Three weeks earlier on 27th September, 2010, we had stepped into a bright ,clear and sunny Helsinki. But now, 24 days later, on 19^th October, 2010 the change in weather was palpable. It was cold ,clammy and misty. The newspapers  were reporting of an early onset of winter and predicted a very severe winter for Europe in the coming months. The bus from the airport dropped us off at Rautatientori (Railway Square), Kaivokatu.

                       Rautatientori (Railway Square), Kaivokatu.

 From there our hotel , Radisson Blu Plaza  at Milonkatu, was close enough to  enable us to wheel our luggage without hiring a cab. As in Copenhagen, our  hotel was located close to both the Central Railway Station and the main bus terminal which form the city centre.   This area is located at the end of the city's main thoroughfare Mannerheimintie ( Mansku). The main shopping areas of Esplanadi and Kampii were also within easy walking distance.  That enabled us to have leisurely strolls as in Copenhagen sans the fear of losing way in a new city. The only deterrent was the cold damp weather signifying the end of autumn. It also came in way of photographing Helsinki at its cheerful best!

Brief Background of Helsinki- Helsinki is the capital and largest city in Finland located in southern Finland on the shore of the Gulf of Finland, which is an arm of the Baltic Sea. As our airplane touched Vaanta Airport the aerial view of Helsinki  was breathtakingly beautiful. The city is spread over a number of bays and peninsulas. Large patches of forests and greenery separate the suburbs. The myriad colours of autumn made the boulevards and parks even more attractive.

                 Aerial views of Helsinki during touchdown
 ( These pictures were taken in September 2010 at the time of our first arrival into Scandinavia. Three weeks later the weather became cold and misty)

 The original official name of Helsinki in Swedish was “ Helsingfors” . Colloquially it is also referred to as “Hesa” in Finnish and “ Stadi” in Swedish. With a quarter of Finland’s population residing in the Greater Helsinki region,it is the largest city in Finland. The metropolitan population of the city now stands at approximately 1.3 million.

                     Helsinki was first established as a trading town by King Gustav I in 1550. During the war between Sweden and Russia In 1788, Finland was annexed by the latter, Russia, as the autonomous Grand Duchy of Finland. For the next hundred years or so Finland remained as a Grand Duchy. The  Russian influence became evident in the buildings that came up during this era . Finland finally got its independence in 1917.

                 Our  reconnoiter of Helsinki started with a walk to Esplanadi. This area is just a stone's throw from the Central Railway Station and Kaisaniemi metro stations. Its boulevards have expensive specialty boutiques.

                             Mikko Street, near Esplanadi

                         Kluuvikatu Street near Esplanadi. It is a fashionable commercial area housing many design shops and hotels.

At the time of our visit Helsinki was chosen to be the  World Design Capital for 2012 ( just  14 months ahead). It is evident that this reputation was built up on the professional excellence of many of the Finnish global brands like Nokia, Kone , Marimekko (to name only a few). The works of Finnish designers like Alvar Alto ( pioneer of architectural functionalism), Elial Saarinen (master of Art Noveau/ Jugend style) and Tapio Vaaro are internationally renowned. The Design District in Helsinki is spread over 25 streets in the  area from Esplanadi to Eira and from Kamppi to Hietalahti square. The  shops, cafes, boutiques, antique shops, restaurants, museums, art galleries and design hotels that are affiliated to the Design District advertise themselves with a black sticker.

   Iittala glassworks and porcelain shop in Esplanadi which is a part of the Design District. This is an airy concept store for the Iittala brand of Finnish glassware, pans, kitchen utensils .

Outside a shop in  Mikko Street, Design District selling the items of Tauno Kangro. He is one of Estonia’s best and most well known artist specializing in bronze sculptures.

The Esplanadi Park and the adjoining areas

Colloquially, Esplanadi is also called “Espa”. It consists of basically of two streets in the heart of Helsinki. On one side it stretches from Erottaja Square to the Market Square (Kauppatori). On the other side it stretches from the Market Square to Katajanokka.

Parallel to the North Esplanade  is another important street Aleksanterinkatu  (whose entire length is covered by sightseeing buses/trams). If one is short of time then it is recommended that one walks or   travels by a tram  though these areas to feel the pulse of Helsinki.

In the  Esplanadi Park there is the statue  of Johan Ludwig Runeberg. He was a well-known Finnish poet who wrote in Swedish verses about life in rural Finland.

             Kappeli is a popular restaurant in Kappeliesplanadi, Esplanadi

.

Our city sightseeing bus started at the Esplanadi Park.  The first place of visit was the Market Square (Kauppatauri). It is located at the eastern end of Esplanadi  bordering  the Baltic Sea to the south and Katajanokka to the east.

The fountain of Havis Amanda (Haaviston Manta) in Kauppatauri  (Market Square) at one end of Esplanadi . It is represented by a bronze maiden standing on seaweed and surrounded by four spouting seals. . Amanda personifies the city of Helsinki rising from the sea.

 

The granite obelisk "The Stone of Empress" (Keisarinnan Kivi) , located in the middle of the Kauppatori square. The obelisk was installed in honour of King Nikolai I and Queen Aleksandra Fedorovna during their visit to Helsinki. The gilt two-headed eagle on the bronze globe sits on the obelisk. Four sea lions surround a statue.

The Presidential Palace(Presidentinlinna) is one of the official residences in Helsinki of the President of the Republic of Finland. It overlooks the Market Square ( Kauppatori) and  is situated on the north side of Esplanadi.

This place became the official place of residence for the Presidents of Finland In 1919.  Later in 1993 the President’s residence was moved to a new place, “ Mantyniemi”/“ Miantuniemi”. Currently, the President’s Palace is the place for the official events and ceremonials. Whenever the President visits the palace, the national flag is traditionally raised above the palace.

                 The rebuilding and furnishing of this building was carried out by the famous German architect-cum-designer Carl Ludvig Engel. The work was continued after his death by his son, Carl Alexander. Now much of the palace is occupied by offices and accommodation for the Office of the President, including the Secretary General, Presidential Cabinet, military aides-de-camps and the household staff.

 

City Hall Building, Pohjoisesplanadi,(North Esplanade), near Kappatauri  (Market Square).

Open air market stalls at Kappatauri  (Market Square). Situated at the end of Esplanadi facing the sea, this open-air market sells fresh fish and produce from all over Finland. Most outdoor markets in Helsinki are open only in summer, but the market halls are open all year round.

Old Market Hall, (Vanha kauppahalli), Kappatauri  (Market Square). This is an old brick building houses right next to the Market Square.

 

                              Uspenski Cathedral, Helsinki

Uspenski Cathedral (Uspenskin Katedraali) is an Eastern Orthodox cathedral in Helsinki. It is located in Kanavakatu on a hill in the Katajanokka area. It is one of the largest orthodox churches in Western Europe. The name comes from the Russian word “uspenie” which is has connotations  to the death of Virgin Mary. The five domes are topped with 22-carat gold

Esplanadi ( Espa) is connected  to both  Senate Square (Senaatintori), the historical center of the city and the popular shopping street of Aleksanterinkatu ( Aleksi ) . Our bus took us first  to Senate Square.

The  Senate Square (Senaatintori) is located in the heart of Helsinki. Here political, religious, academic and commercial institutions are juxtaposed with each other. Each building offers its own  unique architectural visual treat. Carl Ludvig Engel, the German architect, was appointed to design a new city centre on his own. The essence of his style of architecture and planning lies in this very square. It is epitomized by the magnificence of prominent buildings in this area.
          Engel’s focal point was the Senate Square. It is Helsinki’s Neo-Classical centre surrounded by the Government Palace, the Helsinki Cathedral, the Main building of the University.  

             Undoubtedly, the most dominating as also the most beautiful building in Senate Square is the Helsinki Cathedral

   

     Helsinki Lutheran Cathedral (Tuomiokirkko), Senate Square

Aerial view of  Helsinki Cathedral and Senate Square from a hilltop park opposite  Olympia Terminal

Helsinki Cathedral (Tuomiokirkko). It is an Evangelical Lutheran Cathedral. The church was originally built as a tribute to the  Grand Duke, Nicholas I, the Tsar of Russia. Until the independence of Finland in 1917 it was called St. Nicholas Church. It is probably the most prominent building and symbol of the city. The German artist Carl Ludwig Engel worked on it on it from 1818 until his death in 1840.It however was finished in 1852, twelve years after his death. Before the cathedral was built, in its place stood a smaller church, Church of Ulrika Eleonara, dedicated to the Queen of Sweden, Ulrika Eleonara. In the evening digital carillon music is played at the square.

             The Helsinki Cathedral is flanked by almost two identical big buildings lending an air of symmetry to the layout. 

To its right is the Main Building of the University of Helsinki and to the left is the Government Palace Building.  Directly  opposite the Cathedral is a group of buildings collectively called Leijona (Lion) block.

    

Different  views of the Main Building of  the University of Helsinki in Senate Square. It flanks the Helsinki Cathedral on its right.

                                       

Directly opposite in the picture: Government Palace Building (Valtineuveston Linna), Senate Square, built in 1822. 
It houses the  offices of Prime Minister’s office,  Chancellor of justice and the Ministry of Finance. It is situated on the left side of the Cathedral.

 Right side of the picture: The block called Leijona (Lion) Senate Square.
 The light coloured double storied building in this block sandwiched between two yellow buildings is  the Sederholm house. It is a branch of the Helsinki City Museum. It is the oldest building in the city centre, dating back to 1757. It is also the oldest stone building in the whole of Helsinki.

Another view of Government Palace ,Senate Square

           Complete picture of the block called Leijona (Lion).
  
Directly opposite is the building with white columns. It is  Bock House a.k.a. Old Town Hall (Vaanta Ratihuone). It dates back to 1763. 
To the extreme left in the picture(partially obscured), next to Bock House,  is the Sederholm house. 
It is a branch of the Helsinki City Museum. It is the oldest building in the city centre, dating back to 1757. It is also the oldest stone building in the whole of Helsinki.

When we visited the Senate Square in October 2010, it was the venue of the United Buddy Bears. It was one of the largest open-air art exhibitions in Finland.
                                       

Helsinki Lutheran Cathedral and the statue of Emperor Alexander II of Russia in front at Senate Square.

A statue of Emperor Alexander II is located in the centre of the square. It was erected in 1894 and was built to commemorate his re-establishment the Diet of Finland. He initiated several reforms that increased Finland's autonomy from Russia. While the statue of Alexander is on a pedestal, it is surrounded by figures representing the law, culture and the peasants. In a way this monument is a symbol of Finland's erstwhile relationship with Imperial Russia.    
              

 

Main Library Building of the University of Helsinki, Senate Square. This was also designed by Carl Ludwig Engel.

Our extensive photo-op session at Senate Square led to an obsession with concrete, it was time to relieve our eyes with some 'green treat'. Our bus took us to the ‘garden areas’ of the city. These were interspersed with stops at some historical monuments .

.

 

St. Henry's Cathedral   

                                    St. Henry’s Cathedral

St. Henry's Cathedral is the main Catholic church in Helsinki in a predominantly Lutheran country. Hence it is patronized by a large number of foreigners and therefore offers Mass in many languages.
The St. Henry’s Cathedral is located on an elevated area surrounded by a park. From there we could get a  good look at the South Harbour, with the Olympia Terminal being very close to us.

 

Olympia Terminal, the southernmost terminal in South Harbour. It was built for the 1952 Summer Olympics and was inaugurated during that time.
                                         

South Harbour ( Etelasatama) is a bay and harbor area immediately next to the centre of the city of Helsinki. It is the largest passenger harbour in Finland. Most of the harbour's traffic is to Stockholm (Sweden), Tallinn (Estonia), and also cruises. In summertime, there is also much small ship traffic. The South Harbour has eight  piers and four terminals.

Temppeliaukio Church (Temple  Square Church/ Rock Church)

                          Entrance to the Temppeliaukio Church

                                    

Temppeliaukio Kirkko (“ Temple Square Church”) is a Lutheran Church in the Toolo neighbourhood of Helsinki,  in the heart of Helsinki. It was designed by two brothers who were architects. The stone hewn church was built by excavating the interior of a rock. It is lit by light entering through a glazed dome. The roof is made of 22 kilometres of copper strips. Maintaining the original character of the square is the fundamental concept behind the building. The unique choice of its form has made it a favorite with professionals and aficionados of architecture. The Temppeliaukio church is one of the most popular tourist attractions in the city.

                  The Church Altar as seen from the balcony
   

                 The Church Organ as seen from the balcony

Our next point of halt was the Sibelius Park ( Sibeliuspuisto) in the district of Toolo.

 

The Sibelius Monument (Sibelius-monumentti) located at the Sibelius Park ( Sibeliuspuisto) in the district of Toolo. It is dedicated to the Finnish composer Jean Sibelius. He wrote music for the glorification of his own Finnish countrymen and in defiance of the oppressor, Russia. Finlandia, his most famous composition came to represent Finnish patriotism and pride. The monument was designed by Eila Hiltunen.

 Sibelius Park: One sculpture consists of series of more than 600 hollow steel pipes welded together in a wave-like pattern. The cluster of steel pipes, shaped like an organ, is representative of a forest.

Holy Trinity Church, Orthodox Church, Kruununka

The Holy Trinity Church is an Orthodox Church located in Kruununhaka district of Helsinki. It was built in 1826 in the neo-classical style under the direction of the German architect, Carl Ludvig Engel.

  

    The Gateway to the Old Church Park ( Vanhan  Kirkon Puisto) , Bulevardi. It is a  popular recreational parks abounding in elm trees.

   (Folks, please excuse me for the poor photography. Our sightseeing bus did not stop at this place to enable us to take better shots. I would have loved to visit the place once again given the interesting history behind it . Sadly,  time and sightseeing buses wait for none!)

The above structure is the gateway that leads to the Old Church of Helsinki (Helsingin Vanha Kirkko). It is the oldest existing church in central Helsinki. The church was designed by Carl Ludvig Engel and built between 1824 and 1826. It was initially planned only to serve as a temporary building before Lutheran Cathedral was be completed in 1852, but remained in use due to the rapid population growth from the early 19th century onward.

               Colloquially the park is sometimes called Ruttopuisto (Plague Park) as over a thousand victims of the 1710 plague are buried next to the park. The park itself was a cemetery from the 1780s until shortly after the church's construction. Its use as a graveyard was discontinued after the consecration of  bigger cemetery in the city in 1829. However in 1918 and 1919 some victims of the Finnish Civil War and Finnish volunteers of the Estonian War of Independence were buried there.

                   There are now about 40 gravestones and memorials inside Old Church Park. It includes the tomb of Johan Sederholm . He was  a Helsinki merchant, ship owner and industrialist who acted as the city’s representative to the Diets. Incidentally his house , the 1757 stone-built “Sederholm House” (Sederholmin Talo) in Senate Square is now a Helsinki City Museum dedicated to Johan Sederholm.

     

Kaisaniemi Botanical Garden of the University of Helsinki. (The other botanical garden is located in Kumpula.)

The University of Helsinki Botanical Garden is an institution affiliated to the Finnish Museum of Natural History of the University of Helsinki. It maintains a collection of live plants for use in research and teaching. The Kaisaniemi Garden is open to the public. Its greenhouse is currently home to more than 800 different species of plants and its grounds to more than 2,800 plants of different origins. The designer architect Carl Ludvig Engel divided the park into two distinct areas; 
   i) a symmetrical, tree-lined park ii) landscaped garden formed by winding paths.

 

 Olympic Tower is a  14 storeyed, 72 metres high modernistic  tower  that offers a great view over the city. It was constructed during the 1952 Summer Olympics.

The Tower of Helsinki Stadium (Olympic Stadium), Olympic Tower.

 The statue of Paavlo Nurmi, the Finnish athlete nicknamed the “ Flying Finn”, outside the Olympic Stadium.

Sportshall (Kisahalli)

Toolo Sports Hall ( Toolon kisahalli) is a sports venue located in the Toolo district . It is located near the Olympic Stadium, the Opera House  and the Sonera Stadium.The hall was originally a venue for concerts, banquets and sporting events, but is now used only for training and competition in various sports

          National Opera  Hall (Kansallisooppera), Helsinginkatu

The Finnish National Opera ( Suomen Kansallisooppera)  is the leading opera company in Finland. Its home base is the Opera House on Toolonlahti Bay in Toolo.

        Finnkino Tennispalatsi  Cinema Building,Salomankatu

Tennispalatsi ( Tennis Palace), is a cultural and recreational center in Kamppi.  It houses a Finnkino movie theatre, the Helsinki City Art Museum and  the Museum of Cultures.

    

                           Finlandia Hall, Mannerheimintie              

Finlandia Hall is a concert hall  with a conference hall . It is located alongside the Toolonlahtii bay. The building was designed by Alvar Aalto, Finland's best known architect. The marble Finlandia Hall is a popular conference and concert venue in Helsinki. The building itself is worth a visit particularly for architecture buffs.



Finnish National Gallery (Valtion taidemuseo) is the largest art museum institution of Finland. It consists of the Ateneum art museum, the museum of  Contemporary Art, Kiasma, the Sinebrychoff Art Museum and the Central Art Archives.

Kiasma Museum of Contemporary Art. The equestrian statue of Mannerheim stands outside the museum.

 

Shopping Centres and streets of Helsinki

After the individual visits to the historical sites were over,  our sightseeing bus then took us through Helsinki's main shopping street in Aleksanterinkatu (Aleksi, for short ). It was named after Tsar Alexander I of Russia. It runs from Senate Square to Mannerheimintie, parallel to the North Esplanade. The street begins near the President’s Palace. It runs past several famous buildings, the Helsinki Cathedral, the main building of the University of Helsinki and the Stockmann Department store.

              

The sightseeing bus  was the best way to get the initial introduction to Helsinki. But its pace was hurried. We needed to know the streets and the history behind their buildings in a more relaxed manner. For tourists, the most convenient  means of travel would be the extensive Helsinki tramline network. The slower pace of the tram and its open spaces enables one to take good pictures of the local building 

The route lines 3B and 3T that together do a 'figure-eight (8) circuit' around the city take you through the heart of the business districts of Helsinki.

Buildings  seen en route during tour  by sight seeing bus and tram on service route 3B and 3T

The tram lines 3B, 3T run along Aleksanterinkatu ( Aleksi). One can find plenty of shops here.  The largest department store in Scandinavia, Stockmann is located at the corner of Aleksanterinkatu and Mannerheimintie. There are high-end design stores around Aleksanterinkatu and Etela-Esplanadi.

 

Sokos. a large department store, located right next to the railway station. 

Close by, in the Kamppi area, you can find the shopping centres, Kamppi and Forum apart from the department store Sokos.

.

  

The Swedish Theatre (Svenska Teatern), Erottaja Square at the end of Esplanadi. It is a Swedish language theatre.  It was the first national stage of Finland.

 The Swedish Theatre is in the Kaartinkaupunki neighborhood. This building marks the beginning of Mannerheimintie (Mannerheim Street), the longest and most famous street in Helsinki. Mannerheimintie, begins at Erottaja and continues northwest, past the districts of  Toolo till it merges with a highway leading outside the city.

Erottaja, meaning "the separator", is a public square in the heart of Helsinki.  It is designated as the official geographic "zero point" of Helsinki from where distances to other cities are measured. The square is the meeting point of central Helsinki's two famous streets, Esplanadi and Mannerheimintie. Erottaja square is the western endpoint of Esplanadi, the eastern endpoint being  the, Kappatauri ( Market Square).

Our  tram then took us through the commercial centres  of Siltasaarenkatu in Hakaniemi District

   

  Church of Kallio (Kallion kirkko)  as seen from different angles.  

 Kallion kirkko is located on top of a  hill at the end of Siltasaarenkatu. The church is built of grey granite (1912) and its massive looks dominate the view from Hakaniemi district.

Kallio (literally “ the rock”)  is a district located about one kilometre north of the city centre. It is one of the most densely populated areas in Finland.

                                              Commercial Complex in Siltasaarenkatu.

Triangle Building (Arenan Talo), Siltasaarenkaatu ( in the Hakaniemi Region)

   

  Circular Building (Ympyratalo), Siltasaarenkaatu ( in the Hakaniemi  Square).

Hakaniemi Market Square. it is within a short  walking distance from Triangle Building (Arenan Talo), Siltasaarenkaatu

Around the  Railway  Square:

After the tram and bus tours were completed we felt the need to explore the architectural beauties in the area nearer to our hotel.  We had keenly explored for beauty far and wide but in our hurry we had forgotten to notice the one that was lying under our very eyes!

   

The terminus of the Helsinki Central Railway Station ( Rautatieasema) in  Kaivokatu. 
(The tower peeping from behind is that of the Bus Terminus at Rautatientori (Railway Square), Kaivokatu.)

It is at this very station that in 1940 the then President of Finland, Kvosti Kallio, died of a heart attack after having retired as President. The station also hosts the Rautatientori which is the busiest station of the Helsinki Metro.

The Finnish National Theatre (Suomen Kansallisteatteri) is located in central Helsinki very close to the Helsinki Central Railway Station Square. 

This theatre is the oldest Finnish language professional theatre in Finland. It is often associated with the statue of the Finnish national romantic writer , Aleksis Kivi located in front of it. The importance of this theatre in the rise of Finnish Nationalism can be understood better if one studies the social and political history of the country. 
     Finland was part of the Russian Empire, and its intellectual elite was Swedish speaking. The cultural movement , that began  later part of the 19^th Century through the Finnish language,  gradually developed political ramifications by the turn of the century. It eventually led to national independence in 1917.

Statue of Aleksis Kivi in the the front. The building of the National Theatre is in the rear.

Aleksis Kivi was a Finnish author who wrote “Seven Brothers”. It was the first significant novel in  Finnish language. Not only was he among the very early authors of Finnish authors, he also ranks among the greatest of them.

Our sojourn in Helsinki had come to an end.   But,“ Once is not enough”!  I am ignorant of  the literary connotations of author, Jaqueline Susan , when she wrote the book with that title ! In my case it meant that I needed to  visit  Finland once again, this time to lose myself in its countryside.  
     How can 48 hours be enough to soak in the beauty of the “ Land of a Thousand Lakes” ? It was almost the end of autumn when we had stepped into Helsinki for the second time. There were newspaper reports that temperatures had already dipped much lower than the previous years. (Later in December 2010 , Scandinavia faced one of its coldest winter in 2010). But, coming from India , I was truly blessed with a riot of the colours of Fall. This is something that is not experienced over a greater part of my homeland.
            I may have shivered throughout my walks in the damp and frosty weather, but I signed off from a very memorable 24 day Scandinavian sojourn on these very colourful notes of the changing colours of Autumn in the beautiful parks of Helsinki.