Monday, 10 August 2015

SAUNTERING AROUND IN COPENHAGEN

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT:
I acknowledge my gratitude and  thanks  to Google, Wikipedia , the various blog spots,  magazine articles and travel guides for the inputs provided by them all the four countries of Scandinavia- Norway, Sweden, Denmark and Finland . The information provided by them has vastly helped me to connect to connect my photographs with the history linked to these places.
               Though I visited all the four Scandinavian Countries almost 5 years back, in October 2010, I could sit down with determination only in 2015 to compile this blog.  Better late than never!  Five years could be a  period long enough for many of the old landmarks to yield place to newer ones. So in that sense my blog may already have become outdated in some places . It could require an updating with new photographs. If it does, then I shall certainly do the needful-- --provided I happen to revisit these countries (by the Grace of God, certainly !)   Travel often makes you acknowledge humbly the role of the 'Invisible Hand'. This  term extends beyond just the economic forces that  many economists are often inclined to refer to !
          Through this blog post, I thank my various friends and relatives   for their overwhelming  warmth and hospitality during all the occasions when they hosted me at their homes . I also thank them for by sparing their valuable time for me and escorting me around in new places, helping me to accomplish  sight seeing in otherwise remote and difficult places. I also thank my various co-travellers from different parts of the world for their enjoyable company,wit, humour and camaraderie during our journeys together. They made each of my  sojourns very memorable ,without an exception.
      I request viewers to please excuse me for the poor photography. Scandinavia was the first time when I handled a compact digital camera for an  intensive use. I was not familiar with the subtle nuances of photography in changing conditions of light and weather. Also our  sightseeing bus did not stop at many a place to enable us to take better shots under static conditions (without the interference from rain-splattered or dusty windows).
           Sadly,  time,tide and sightseeing buses and trains wait for none!



                  General Backgound of Denmark and Copenhagen:

 Denmark consists of one peninsula and more than 400 islands. Copenhagen, the capital of Denmark, is situated on the east coast of Denmark's largest island, Zealand and partly on Amager Island . It is second the largest city in Scandinavia  (after Stockholm). 

Copenhagen is a city with much charm, as reflected in its canals, narrow streets, and old houses. Copenhagen Harbour is twelve kilometers long and runs right into the heart of the city.
         
                       Bicycles lined up at important public places.

In the picture above, in the distant backgound is Nimb one of the oldest established Michelin rated restaurants in Tivoli Gardens.

Copenhagen is the most cycle friendly city in the world. The flat terrain of the city center of Copenhagen is of great aid in easy walking or bicycling. Bicycles  can be borrowed from one of the over 150 racks located at strategic points. A coin deposit unlocks the rack. The coin is refunded when the cycle is returned. 
     Most sights lie within a one square-mile center. And that is why  given the limited time of 48 hours for each city, our trip to Copenhagen proved to be  most fulfilling vis-à-vis all the other Scandinavian capitals,

   We arrived into Copenhagen by the overnight bus from Stockholm . Since most of the journey was during night time , we missed out on the beauty of the rural Swedish landscape. (It was early hours of the morning when we reached Malmo, the last Swedish town. From the speeding bus, my bleary eyes could just about manage to spot the famous, uniquely designed ‘Turning Torso’ building that is one of the distinctive landmarks of the city).

The Oresund Bridge heralded our entry into Denmark early in the morning.
The Oresund Bridge ( Oresundsbron) is a double-track railway and  dual road bridge-tunnel across the Oresund Strait connecting Scania ( the southernmost part of Sweden) to the Danish island of Amager. Oresund Bridge’s  length of 7.8 kilometres makes it the longest combined road and rail bridge in Europe.

An artificial island  Peberholm ( Pepper Islet)  has been created in the middle of the Strait to facilitate this link. The main reason for constructing the island was to have a crossover point between the tunnel and the bridge. Peberholm lies 8 kilometres from the Swedish coast and 4 kilometres from the Danish coast. The  4 kilometre distance between Peberholm to the Danish coast is covered by a tunnel.


Our bus dropped us off near the  Vesterbro Railway Station, the Central Railway Station of  Copenhagen.


   
   Copenhagen Central Station ( Kobenhavns Hovedbanegard) is the largest train station in Denmark is located  in  Vesterbro.

The Central Station  which is located next to Tivoli Gardens and is also close to Axeltorv Square. Though the first Central Station of Copenhagen dates back to 1847, the station at its current location came up in 1911.

For us staying at Hotel Radisson in Axeltorv Square, its entrance at Bernstorffsgade, near Tivoli Gardens was the nearest and most convenient. Vesterbro is also the busiest station in Copenhagen in  terms of intercity and regional trains. . But if suburban trains are to be included, then Norreport Station has a larger passenger throughput.
( At the time of my visit in 2010, Copenhagen Central Station was not connected to the Copenhagen Metro Network but plans were underway to connect it as per the Master Plan of the Metro.)



Freedom Column (Friehedsstotten, Vesterbrogade, near Main Central Station. The 20 metre high obelisk is surrounded by four figures, Valour, Civic, Virtue and Loyalty.

“Frihedsstotten” (The Freedom Column) is the national monument celebrating the ending of Adscription on 20th June ,1788. Adscription  was a form of serfdom which required men between 18 and 36 years of age to continue living on the estate where they were born. 

As in the case of many cities, the Vesterbro station is also a prominent point of orientation in the city. It is bordered on the west by the primary hotel district and to the northeast by the ever popular Tivoli Gardens. Just north of Tivoli is Radhuspladsen, the Central City square and the main terminus for the local bus network. To the east is the city's waterfront, including the canal district of Christianshavn.

 We checked into our hotel, Radisson Blu, near Axeltorv in the Vesterbro area. Its  centralized location  made it convenient for us to see all the important landmarks  around it first before we set out for a long, long walk through Stroget.  The latter, incidentally, is the mandatory “Pilgrim’s Path“ for all tourists eager to imbibe the  true spirit of Copenhagen.
The 26 storeyed Radisson Blu Hotel at Axeltorv Square. It could be one of the tallest hotel buildings in Denmark.It is located in the most central part of the city in easy walking distance of Radhuspladsen, the City Hall Square and the Central Railway Terminus.To the right is the Axeltorv building. The Axeltorv square building gets its name from Bishop Absalon, the founder of Copenhagen.


         Landmark Buildings and Structures on Axeltorv Square.
The Scala Building constructed in 1989 ( and as it appeared in 2010). However at the time of our visit in October 2010 it was closed for a further grand makeover.


The multi-hued garish Palads  Cinema on Axeltorv Square was built in 1918. It stands on the same site where the Central Station stood from 1864 till it moved to its current location in 1911.  It is the second largest cinema hall of its type in Denmark.

Views of  Tivoli Gardens and its tower, the  Nordic Nimb from the nearby Radisson Blu Hotel  (in Axeltorv Square).

       







                                         Tivoli by Night





Tivoli Gardens  is the second oldest amusement park in the world. The oldest is also located in Denmark , at Dyrehavsbakken in nearby Klampenborg . (The latter is about 10 kilometres noth of Copenhagen and  was opened in 1583.)

 Tivoli was opened in 1843. In a way it also is a symbol of the resistance of Danes. In 1943, Nazi sympathizers attempted to break the Danish people's spirit by burning many of Tivoli's buildings, including the concert hall, to the ground. Undaunted, the Danes built temporary buildings, and in a few weeks time the park was back in operation.

After the customary photo-ops at Tivoli we turned north towards Radhuspladsen, the Central City Square and the main terminus for the local bus network.


 
Radhuspladsen  (City Hall Square) with the City Hall to the right and the Palace Hotel and it's tower to the left. It is the largest and most important square in Denmark and the absolute center of Copenhagen. The square is located at the southwestern end of the famous pedestrian street Stroget

Due to its large size, its central location and its affiliation with the city hall, Radhuspladsen is a popular venue for a variety of events, celebrations and demonstrations. Within a short walking distance from the City Hall Square are Tivoli Gardens and the Central Train Station of Copenhagen.



Radhuset, the  Copenhagen City Hall, located in the City Hall Square (Radhuspladsen)  It is located at the southwestern end of the pedestrian street, StrogetStanding 106m tall it shares the title as Copenhagen's tallest building along with Christiansborg Palace, which is of the same height. It was constructed between 1895 and 1902. Located above the entrance (in the middle) is the golden statue of Absalon, the warrior-bishop who has traditionally been credited with the founding of Copenhagen..

A notable building around the Radhuspladsen is Politiken Hus the headquarters of national Danish newspaper, Politiken (This photo was taken in 2010. This area may have seen many changes in the interim.)

Statue of the Lur-horn blowers in the Viking dress at the Radhuspladden ( City Hall Square). The lur-horn is a trumpet like instrument which was used by shepherds to call their cattle

The Weather Girl ( Vejrpigen) perched on top of  the Richs building at the corner of Radhuspladsen. 

The golden weather girl is a gilded sculpture group  indicating the weather. The girl on the bicycle depicts normal weather. However if it is likely to rain, another sculpture rotates to the front. It is depicted by the girl with the umbrella walking her dog.


The best way to feel the pulse  and soak in the history of Copenhagen is to walk down the longest pedestrian mall on earth. Stroget (the hallowed path for every tourist?). Stroget is the 1.8 km long strip between “ Radhuspladsen” and “Kongens Nytorv” (The King’s New  Square). The latter is the square at the head of the Nyhavn canal . It means going through six different streets and squares .  The Stroget area is actually a collection of streets that spread out from this central thoroughfare.
         These streets,in order from Radshuspladsen to Kongens Nytorv, are as follows:
i)Frederiksberggade,ii) Gammeltorv/ Nytorv,iii)  Nygade, iv) Vimmelskaftet,v) Amagertorv and vi) Ostergade.

The street is bound on the west by the City Hall Square, Radhuspladsen and on the east by Kongens Nyrtorv. The mall  was completed in 1962 and serves as a model for pedestrian malls all over the world.
 Despite initial apprehensions by the merchant community about an erosion in their business , this experiment proved to be a success. The area soon boasted more shoppers, cafes, and a renewed street life. Buoyed by the success of the Stroget experiment, the network expanded piecemeal so much so that  Copenhagen’s pedestrian network has expanded  many  times over the initial pedestrian space at Stroget.
 Running parallel to Stroget is the street Straedet. It is an equally bustling shopping area.

                                   Street Scenes in Stroget.

Stroget- I had passed by this figure mistaking it for a statue. Just then it bowed down in acknowledgement  of thanks of a donation by a passerby, as he put a coin in the open can! Every evening (undaunted by the cold) buskers, mimic artistes and jugglers line up at Stroget adding to the with creativity, colour and people of the shopping area


 
     The Guiness World Record Museum in  Ostergade, Stroget

The city planning in Copenhagen underwent a radical change after the great fire of 1728 which destroyed about 40% of the city’s buildings. This gave the town planning authorities to widen and straighten the many small and winding streets thereby placing Frederiksberggade in a straight line between the Town Hall Square and Gammeltorv.
i) The first stretch of our walk through Stroget  was in Frederiksberggade-
ii) Our second stretch was Nygade . It is the shortest of Stroget’s thoroughfare. It leads to a narrow Vimmelskaftet. The latter gets its name from the peculiar curves of the streetthat makes it look like a carpenter’s brace.It opens into a rectangular square that extends into  the third stretch.
ii) In our third stretch we covered Gammeltorv ( Old square) on the left and  Nytorv ( New Square)on the right.
         

 Gammeltorv (Old Market) is the oldest square in Copenhagen. With adjoining Nyrtorv it forms a common space along the  Stroget Pedestrian Zone. Though the square dates back to the foundation of the city in the 12th century, most of its buildings were constructed after the Great Fire of 1795. Prior to that was the Great Fire of 1728 that destroyed 40% of the City’s buildings .The architectural  history of Copenhagen,as in many other European cities, has been deeply influenced by big city fires.

A dominating feature of Gammeltorv is The Caritas Well.  The figure group symbolizes “ Caritas” the  Goddess of Charity/ Generosity. She has a suckling child in her arm.

Gammeltorv ( Old Square). In the centre of the picture is the  Caritas Fountain . Seen behind the Caritas well is the tower of the Copenhagen Cathedral. (Domkirken).  The fountain was shifted to its present location in Gammeltorv in 1608 and was a present from the then ruler King Christian IV to the citizens of Copenhagen.

The Caritas Fountain was also a part of  Copenhagen’s  water supply system. There was a great well under the fountain and water was directed into it  from a lake ten kilometers away. Hence it is also called the Caritas Well.

From the Caritas Fountain we took a short detour to see the Copenhagen Cathedral

The entrance to the Copenhagen Cathedral. (The tympanum displays John the Baptist's preaching)


A side view of the Copenhagen Cathedral. Also called Domkirken  and Vor Frue Kirke (Church of Our Lady). Copenhagen's Cathedral is located in the Latin Quarters of the City. It is beside St.Petri's Church and Stroget.

                              Copenhagen University Building.


Nytorv , the adjoining the square of Gammeltorv, . On the square stands a structure built in Neo Classical/ Baroque Revival style with a copper-clad roof and hand-carved ornamentation. It was  an old kiosk and telephone stand in 1913 when it  offered the first public telephone connection. Today it houses a small cafe with outdoor service.
         After researching more about Copenhagen,I came to know that it  had a vague resemblance to the octagonal memorial temple constructed by the City Magistrate in 1749 to commemorate the tercentenary of the ascent of the House of the Oldenburg to the Danish throne. (Unfortunately, the city hall  got burnt down once again during the Copenhagen Fire of 1795).


Copenhagen Court House (Kobenhavns Domhus) in Nytorv. It was originally built as a combined City Hall and Court House. It  now serves as the seat of the District Court of Copenhagen.


 After Gammeltorv and Nytorv,  we entered Amagertorv  ( Amager Square) ,the fourth stretch of the Stroget pedestrian zone . It is the second oldest square in Copenhagen after Gammeltorv. During the Middle Ages, around the 1300s, when Copenhagen was a small fishing village called Havn, the site at Amagertorv was the main corridor between the village and the beach.  Its name is derived from the Amager farmers who came into  the town to sell their produce at this site.

 Amagertorv is dominated by its Stork Fountain (Storkespringvandet). This fountain was constructed in 1894 as a present to  Crown Prince Frederik (who later became Frederik VIII) and  Crown Princess Louise on the occasion of the silver jubilee of their wedding. The spire of St. Nicholaj (Nicholas) Church can be seen in the background.
 
A closer view of Storkespringvandet (the Stork Fountain) at Amagertorv . It is one of the most famous meeting points in Copenhagen.

Royal Copenhagen Flagship Store at 6, Amagertorv. It is a renaissance building called Mathias Hansen Gard  dating back to 1616. It was built in for Mathias Hansen,  the Mayor of Copenhagen. It is one of the oldest buildings in medieval town. It now houses the flagship stores of Royal Copenhagen ( fine porcelain), Georg Jensen( silverware) & Ilum Bolighus ( design).Its three floors exhibit  exquisite porcelain ware, hand painted dinnerware, figurines and gift articles.


 From Amagertorv we were lead to the final stretch, Ostergade which in turn was   the starting point for Kongens Nytorv.
                                           Ostergade

Church of St. Nicholas (Sankt Nikolajs Kirke) on Nikolaj Plads. It is the tallest church of Copenhagen Nowadays the building serves as avenue for art exhibitions.


From Ostergade we were ushered into  Kongens Nytorv (King's New Square), a public square located at the end of Stroget. It was laid out by Christian V in 1670 in connection with a major extension of the fortified city. There is an equestrian statue of him at its centre.



The equestrian statue of Christian V in Kongens Nytorv. It dates back to  1688 and is the oldest equestrian statue in  Scandinavia. At the foot of the plinth are four statues of Minerva ( representing prudence), Alexander the Great ( representing fortitude),  Hercules (for strength) and Artemisia ( for honour). In the picture above, in the rear is Thott Palace which now  houses the French Embassy ( left side building).

           In the  picture below, in the rear  is the domed building of the Royal Danish Theatre ( right side building). 
 





The Royal Danish Theatre ( Det Konelige Teater) is a  national Danish performing arts institution .
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                           Charlottenborg Palace ( 1671)    
                  
      Charlottenborg Palace as seen from the Nyhavn Canal side

Charlottenborg Palace serves as the Official Exhibition Venue for the Danish Academy of Fine Arts. It is located at the corner of Kongen’s Nytorv and  Nyhavn. 


 The building of the European Environmental Agency (middle). It located next to the French Embassy ( right hand side of the picture)


A close-up of the building of the European Environmental Agency at Kongen’s Nytorv ( King’s Square)

Kongens Nytorv terminates in Nyhavn which is the starting point for all Canal tours. We decided to take a tour of Copenhagen through its highly popular Canal Tours.

                   Important sight seeing places on the Canal Tour.



The main canal of Copenhagen through which many sight seeing tours are conducted
Nyhavn

Nyhavn is a 17th century waterfront, canal and entertainment district. It stretches from Kongens Nytorv (King’s Square) to the harbour front just south of the Royal Playhouse. Following the virtual disappearance of even small vessel traffic with the technological developments in the post-World War era, Nyhavn needed  to reinvent itself. In 1977 Nyhavn was inaugurated as  veteran ship and museum harbor.  As a "heritage harbour" it offers additional treats for the eye in the form of  historical wooden ships .The fact that the famous Danish story-teller Hans Christian Andersen lived at Nyhavn for a few years also enhances its heritage status.

           The conspicuous brightly coloured 17th and early 18th century townhouses and bars, cafes and restaurants which are lined up on both sides of the canal are the characteristic features of Nyhavn



The restaurants along the canal serve good food. Interesting fare is served at some other places too!
Along its northern, sunnier side, Nyhavn is lined with bars and restaurants facing the harbor.
The northern side of Nyhavn (odd numbers) is lined by brightly coloured townhouses built with wood, bricks and plaster with the oldest house dating back to 1661. It is also the sunnier side and is lined with bars and restaurants facing the harbor. The southern side of Nyhavn (even numbers) has more of lavish mansions lining the canal.

The Royal Danish Playhouse (Skuepilhuset), Frederiksstaden
  
The theatre has been built with long, slim, deep-brown bricks that was specially developed for the project. It offers panoramic views of the harbour and contains a restaurant and a cafe with a significant portion of the building projecting over water.

The Copenhagen Opera House ( Operaen) is the national opera house of Denmark and among the most modern opera houses in the world. It is also one of the most expensive opera houses ever built. It was constructed between 2001 and 2004 and was inaugurated in 2005.

The Opera is located on the shore of the harbor ,just opposite the  Amalienborg Palace.The island on which it is located is called Dokoen ( Dock Island).  Just a few meters west of the opera, one can still see an old dock and a pumping station.



The Church of Our Saviour (Vor Frelsers Kirke) in Christianshavn is a baroque church most famous for its corkscrew spire with an external winding staircase that can be climbed to the top 
This church offers extensive views over central Copenhagen. It is also noted for its carillon, which is the largest in northern Europe.  It finds a mention in Jules Verne’s “A Journey to the Centre of the Earth”. The character  Axel is made to climb the winding spire for five consecutive days . Evidently, this was the therapy propsed by Axel’s uncle to cure his nephew of his Acrophobia, before their descent into the volcano.
Christianshavn is an artificial neighbourhood founded in early 17th Century by Christian IV. It is dominated by canals. In the 1970s Christianshavn developed a bohemian reputation thus giving it its own distinctive personality vis-à-vis other neighbourhoods of Copenhagenwith its liveliness.

 Christiansbro is the most affluent part of  Christianshavn. It has several modern residential developments built on the grounds of the former B&W Shipyard. Several headquarters are also found  along its entire harbour front  area. The  most notable is the Danish headquarters of Nordea.

The most important historic building  in Christiansbro is  Christian’s Church.
Christian’s Church in Christiansbro neighbourhood, the upper rampart section of Christianshavn, as seen during the Canal Tour.

Left hand side: The Danish Architecture Centre in  Christiansbro of Christianshavn  as seen during the Canal Tour.  It is located in a fine old warehouse. It is the leading exhibition venue for new architecture.

Naval Station Holmen (Fladestation Holmen) is one of several naval stations of the Royal Danish Navy, supplementing the two Danish naval bases in Frederikshavn and Korsor. In the foreground is Nyholm's Central Guard and  the salutatory cannons of the Sixtus Battery in the background .

The naval base is now confined to its northernmost island of Nyholm which is a part of the larger island of Holmen.
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“Georg Stage” is a full rigged three masted sailing ship serving as a training ship for Danish sailors


                                              Black Diamond ( of the Royal Danish Library)
The Black Diamond ( Den Sorte Diamant) is a modern waterfront extension to the Royal Danish Library’s old building on Slotsholmen. It gets its  nickname from its polished black granite cladding and irregular angles. When the building was completed in 1999, it heralded the construction of many more large scale buildings along Copenhagen’s waterfront. 
        Two museums are based in the Black Diamond, the National Museum of Photography and a small museum dedicated to cartoon art. (The Absolute Black variety of granite with which the building has been constructed was mined in Zimbabwe and polished in Italy).

Slotsholmen
Slotsholmen (The Castle Islet) - It is an island in the Inner City of Copenhagen. The city's first castle on the island was constructed by Bishop Absalon in 1166-67. 
It is at the site where the following important buildings and institution are housed.
i) Christiansborg Palace, ii) Christiansborg Castle which is the seat of the Danish Parliament ( Folketing) iii) Borsen, the Stock Exchange iv) The Chancellery v) The Royal Library vi) The National Archive. Hence Slotsholmen is often referred to as 'the Island of Power.

                 The approach of Slotsholmen (The Castle Islet)during the castle tour.

Though Bishop Absalon constructed a small castle in 1167, the present day Castle is a result of several reconstruction and redesigning over the years. The ruins of Absalon's Castle and the Copenhagen Castle are excavated and at display today under the present  day Christiansborg Castle.
Besides being an Islet of Power, Slotsholmen has also important cultural centres with unique museums and cultural sights.

           Buildings on Slotsholmen as seen during the Canal Tour

Christiansborg Castle is the seat of the Danish Parliament ( Folketing)

The Stock Exchange ( Borsen) with its distinctive dragon spire. In the extreme left is the Christiansborg Castle ( the seat of the Danish Parliament, Folketing)

Christiansborg Palace
Christiansborg Palace ( left) and  Christiansborg Chapel (right) ( Christiansborg Statskirke)

At 106 metres (inclusive of its tower), Christiansborg shares the title of being the tallest building in Copenhagen along with the City Hall of Copenhagen

View of Christiansborg Palace as seen from Frederickholms Canal

View of  the tower of Christiansborg Palace as seen  during the canal tour in Frederickholms Canal

Bridges seen during the Canal Tour

Slotsholmen is surrounded partly by Copenhagen Inner Harbour and  partly by canals. Nine bridges connect Slotsholmen to the rest of Copenhagen.
Stormbroen (English: The Assault Bridge) is a small arch bridge in stone, connecting Stormgade (towards The City  Hall Square) with Vindebrogade on Slotsholmen.

The bridge is named after the Assault on Copenhagen in 1659. It was at this very spot, that the  Swedish troops made their principal attack. After a series of defeats, the Danish troops finally gained victory over the Swedish troops, leaving 2,000 dead soldiers in front of the ramparts at Stormgade.

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                 Hojbro ( High Bridge)  connecting Gammel Strand with  Slotsholmen

                 The Marble Bridge connects to the Palace Gates of Christiansborg Palace



         Copenhagen Port Authority Building with the two Royal Pavilions at Nordre Toldbod. (Toldbod is the Danish term for the Custom House that used to be located here).
It is from these two pavilions that the Queen and her husband board the Royal Yacht for their annual summer trip around the country.
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West India Warehouse (Vestindisk Pakhus) a.k.a. Caribbean Warehouse  taken during the Canal Tour. The replica of the statue of David by Michelangelo (left side) stands in the front. Many such warehouses alongside the Canal have been converted into museums or cultural centres. 

The canal is lined with many old buildings and warehouses , some of which have been converted into cultural centres.
            

 Refshaleøen  Island in Copenhagen’s Harbour.  It housed the shipyard, Burmeister and Wain till its bankruptcy in 1996. Since then, the area has undergone significant changes since the many shipyard workers today have been replaced with a mixture of creative entrepreneurs, small craft, flea markets, storage facilities and cultural and recreational uses.

The dome of the Marble Church (Marmorkirken  in the Amalenborg Palace Compound as seen during the Canal Tour. It is flanked by the different wings of the Amalienborg Palace


After completing the Canal Tour we decided to cover other places within walking distance of Stroget on our way back to our hotel before dusk set in. We walked to Hojbro Plads which was nearest to our disembarkation point

Hojbro Plads  (Hojbro Square) is a rectangular  public square located between the adjoining  Amagertorv and Slotsholmen Canal. It adjoins Amagertorv and we took a detour from the latter to reach it. Its name is derived from Hojbro Bridge ( High Bridge)  which connects Hojbro Plads with  Slotsholmen island via Gammel Strand. It is a relatively new square and was laid out following the Great Fire of 1795 to create a  fire break. At the same time it contributes to the aesthetic qualities to the area

           The most striking feature of the square is an equestrian statue of Absalon, the warrior-bishop who has traditionally been credited with the founding of Copenhagen. Bishop Absalon was adviser of King Valdemar I and was the archbishop of Roskilde (the capital of Denmark in the 12th century). Absalon lived between 1128 and 1201. This statue was inaugurated in 1901 to commemorate the seven hundred years of his death.
       
Equestrian statue of Absalon who  founded Copenhagen in 1167.
The equestrian statue of  Absalon in Hojbro Plads dwarfed by the spire of St. Nikolai Church in the background.
The equestrian statue depicts Absalon as a military commander, mounted on a rearing horse, wearing a mail and holding an axe, looking towards Christiansborg Palace on Slotsholmen where he built his castle in 1167. The  Stork Fountain  can be seen in the foreground.

Fiskerkone (Fishwife)in Gammel Strand (near Hojbro Plads). The granite sculpture is a reminder to the olden days when Gammel Strand was originally the site of the Copenhagen Fish Market besides being central to the commerce of the town. The fish market was closed in 1958.

From Hojbro Plads we went to Amagertorv.From here we took a detour to Hellingandskirken (The Church of Holy Spirit). Hojbro Plads and Hellingandskirken lie on the opposite sides of Amagertorv.
   Hellingandskirken ( The Church of Holy Spirit). After the Fire of  1728 it remains one of the oldest churches.

 Next ,we walked up to the pedestrian street of Kobmagergade, which intersects with Stroget in between Amagertorv and Ostergade  to see Rundetarn ( The Round Tower).

The Round Tower (Rundetarn) is a cylindrical tower  on the pedestrian street of Kobmagergade. It was built in 1642 during the reign of King Christian IV.

It is built in masonry of alternating yellow and red bricks, the colours of the Oldenburg dynasty. Instead of stairs, a  spiral  ramp forms the only access way to the tower top observatory.The 209 metres long ramp turns 7.5 times around the hollow masonry core of the tower before reaching the observation deck and observatory at the top.This design was chosen to allow a horse and carriage to reach the library, moving books in and out of the library as well as transporting heavy and sensitive instruments to the observatory.
        It is the oldest functioning astronomical observatory in Europe .Today the Round Tower serves as an observation tower, a public astronomical observatory, an exhibition and concert venue and a historical monument. Every year in spring, a unicycle race is held in the Round Tower. The contestants have to go up and down the tower.
        (In  Hans Christian Andersen’s fairy tale, “The Tinder Box”, the largest of the three dogs is said to have eyes as large as the Round Tower at Copenhagen).

 Dusk was approaching fast and we had to race against time to get a few good photos while there was still some light. Our next point of call was Kongen’s Have (The King's Garden). It lies in the heart of Copenhagen, and is the most visited park in the city. It is a part of the Rosenborg Castle compound.  It was built by King Christian IV in 1606 with the purpose of providing the court with vegetables, fruits and flowers. Over the years though the garden has undergone several changes, the original three entrances have been preserved.


 King's Garden (Kongen's Have) /Rosenberg Garden (Rosenberg Have)
Distant view of the Rosenborg Castle spires from the gate of King’s Garden.
 Statue of Hermes, the Greek God atop a building on Kobmagergade. (This was my last photo shot before I called it a day and went to unwind myself for the evening)

The next day we set off for Amaliehaven  (The Amalie Garden). It is a small park located between Amalienborg Palace and the waterfront in the Frederiksstaden neighbourhood in central  Central Copenhagen. It was established in 1983 as a gift from the A.P. Moller and Chastine McKinney Moller Foundation.It is a two level garden with a fountain in the middle.

 
Amaliehaven is located on a site Larsens Plads where a shipyard was  established in 1802 by a wealthy ship-owner named Lars Larsen. The shipyard and its large lumberyard were situated right beside Amalienborg Palace and called “Larsen’s Plads”. In 1870 the shipyard was closed and a new port terminal was established at the site in 1879. With the discontinuation of the sea route to America with Scandinavian America Line in 1935, the quay area ceased to be the hub of many commercial activities.


.From Amaliehaven  we walked across to Amalienborg Palace( Amalienborg)

Amalienborg Palace( Amalienborg) is the winter home of the Danish Royal Family. It consists of 
four classic facades around an octagonal courtyard. It was originally built for four noble families. At the centre of the square is statue of King Frederick V mounted on a horse. He was the founder of Amalienborg. After the Christiansborg Palace burnt down in 1794 the royal family bought the four palaces from the four nobles.

      The entrance to the  Amalienborg Palace Compound

  Inside the Palace Compound with  the facades  of different palaces






The four palaces are:
i) ChristianVII's Palace (occasionally open to the general public) ii) Christian VIII's Palace iii) Frederick VIII's Palace iv) Christian IX's Palace


The equestrian statue of Frederick V at the centre of the Amalienborg Palace Square
 


The Marble Church a.k.a. Marmorkirken ( in the middle) , as seen from the compound of the Amalienborg Palace


Frederick's Church ( Frederiks Kirke), popularly known as The Marble Church ( Marmorkirken).

   
        
The interiors of Frederick's Church (Frederiks Kirke)/Marble Church (Marmorkirken). It was built to commemorate the 300 years jubilee of the first  member of the house of Oldenburg along with the rest of the district of Frederiksstaden.



Frederick's Church has the largest church dome in Scandinavia (though there are three larger domes elsewhere in Europe). It seems to have been inspired by St. Peter’s  Basilica in Rome. The church was left incomplete and, in spite of several initiatives to complete it, stood as a ruin for nearly 150 years. A further consequence of this lapse was that the original plans for the church to be built almost entirely from marble had to be discarded. Instead construction was completed mostly with limestone. It was subsequently redesigned and finally opened in 1894.
                                                          

After getting sufficient spellbound by the sculptures and frescoes inside the Marble Church, we made a quick hop across to the adjoining Bredgade Street for an additional dose of religiosity !This is the location of the only Russian Orthodox church in Copenhagen , the St. Alexander Nevsky Church


The distinctive three gold onion domes of the Russian Orthodox church, St. Aleksander Nevsky Church, in Bredgade Street  very  close to Frederick's Church/ Marble Church.

 Next on our agenda was St. Alban’s Church at the end of Amaliegade. This church is within  easy walking distance from the Amalienborg Palace Compound. Locally, it is often referred to simply as the English Church.It is an Anglican church and was designed as a traditional English parish church in the Gothic Revival Style. It was built from 1885 to 1887 for the growing English congregation in the city. Located in a park  at the end of Amaliegade, the beauty of its surroundings is enhanced by its  proximity to Gefion  Fountain and Langelinie.
 
St. Alban's Church, two different views




From St. Alban’s Church it was a hop,skip and jump to Gefion  Fountain

 
The Gefion Fountain ( Gefionspringvandet)

The Gefion Fountain ( Gefionspringvandet) is a large fountain on the harbour front . It features a large-scale group of animal figures being driven by the legendary  Norse goddess , Gefjun. It is located in Langelinie Park and is  used  by some as a  wishing well.

The fountain depicts the mythical story of the creation of the island of Zealand on which Copenhagen is situated. The main figure of the Gefion Fountain is the powerful goddess Gefion from the Nordic mythology. According to  the Norse folklore the Swedish king ,Gylfi , promised to give Gefjun the equivalent territory she could plough in a night. She turned her four sons into oxen and the territory they ploughed out of the earth was then thrown into the sea between Sweden and the island of Fyn in Denmark. The hole became a lake called Logrinn/ Leginum. Interestingly, modern maps show that Zealand and the lake Vanern ( Sweden’s largest lake)  resemble each other in size and shape !

The fountain was donated to the city of Copenhagen by the Carlsberg Foundation on the occasion of the brewery’s 50-year anniversary.



 From Gefion fountain we wandered around Langelinie.
Langelinie (Long Line) is a pier, promenade and park and is the place where the statue of the Little Mermaid is located.
Langelinie has its origins in an idyllic path along the Oresund coast that rounded the citadel Kastellet. For a long time, the stretch was a military area where civilians were not granted unrestricted access.  In a plan from 1862 it was decided to dig out the area to allow access for the largest ocean-going vessels and use the materials removed for land fills along the coast. It was decided to create a free port in the area north of Kastellet at the site of the Langelinie promenade.  Langelinie became now a pier.
The Langelinie Pier (Langeliniekajen) has a water depth allowing big ocean-going vessels to tie up.  Most cruise ships arriving in Copenhagen also berth at Langelinie Pier.

The Langelinie Park. The park contains numerous monuments, statues, marina and a playground. Among these are the Gefion Fountain, the Ivar Huitfeldt Column and the Little Mermaid.

The Huitfeldt Column (Huitfeldtssojlen) is located at the Langelinie Quay.

        Ivar Huitfeldt was a Danish navy captain who died fighting against the Swedes during the battle of Koge bay in 1710 (Great Northern War). His heroic fight did not go in vain as it saved many Danish ships. The monument is decorated with the cannons and the anchor from his ship. On the front of the monument is a portrait of Ivar Huitfeldt and on the top a statue of Victoria, the Goddess of  Victory.

Statue of Marie, the Princess of Denmark, near the Langelinie harbour.

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For people all over the world the symbol most representative of Denmark is The Little Mermaid"(Den Lille Havfrue). We were aware of the fact that for the first time in its history in May 2010, the statue was moved from its Copenhagen harbor emplacement and was  transported  to Shanghai for Expo 2010. It was to remain there until October 20th 2010. We were in Copenhagen on 17th and 18th October , 2010. We had to content ourselves seeing a virtual image of the Mermaid. That  can be called in keeping with the ‘times of Virtual Reality.
 "The Little Mermaid" was commissioned in 1909 by Carl Jacobsen, son of the founder of Carlsberg . Unfortunately, despite its non-interfering and silent aloofness, the Mermaid has provoked many a vandal. It has been severely vandalized on several occasions. 'Moralist brigades’ seem to be at work even in permissive societies!


After a hectic , memorable two day sojourn it was now time to bid goodbye to  Copenhagen. We realized that we had covered all the important places in the city by foot. We had not stepped into any train as yet. That would be sacrilegious for an ex-railwayman like me! I could complete this 'mandatory professional pilgrimage' for myself by boarding  the train to Copenhagen Airport on the last leg of our journey  in Copenhagen.

Inside the train that took us to Copenhagen Airport
Welcome to Copenhagen Interactive

Copenhagen Airport ( Kobenhavns Lufthavn, Kastrup) is the main international airport of Denmark. It is located in the town of Kastrup on the island of Amager. It is roughly 8 kilometres south of Copenhagen city centre. Locally, it is still referred to as Kastrup (to  distinguish it from another airport at Roskilde). It is the largest airport in Scandinavia, and is also one of the oldest international airports in Europe.

 
                     Images of Copenhagen Airport at Kastrup.

As our plane took off from Copenhagen for Oslo on our onward journey to Helsinki,I was laden with nostalgic memories. I resolved that I would make another trip to Denmark. This time ,however, I would like  to lose myself  in its lovely countryside and soak in its rich agrarian and pastoral culture. There is always another time! Hope springs eternal in the human breast!








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